North-East Spain: The Low-Key Luxury Mediterranean Coast

by  ZOE BOWTHORPE, Local Expert, Spain, Condé Nast Johansens

Away from the more crowded resorts of the south, Spain’s secluded north-eastern coast offers a different narrative. If you’re looking for a low-profile escape, then follow Catalonia’s Costa Brava (Spain’s ‘Wild Coast’) down past the eastern Costa del Azahar (the ‘Orange Blossom Coast’) leading to Valencia. Beyond the lively beaches of Barcelona, this Mediterranean route offers just as much sunshine but more elegant escapes, and a quieter side of luxury Spain. Here, the crowds disperse and give way to local life, with rocky coves and terraces of vineyards. For those with time, stop off between them for the miles of outstretched sand along the Costa Dorada, the aptly named ‘Golden Coast’ or explore Tarragona’s ancient Roman ruins.

These Spanish ‘costas’ are a far cry from the well-known beaches of the Costa del Sol or Costa Blanca, offering more rugged scenery, authentic local cuisine, and peaceful refuge. Here, we take a look beyond the pine trees, where the towns offer a sense of sophistication and a – quietly whispered – luxury travel experience.

Cadaqués, xavierarnau / E+ via Getty Images

Cadaqués, Costa Brava

Dalí set up home in the quiet fishing village of Cadaqués during the 1930s and often described the landscape around Costa Brava’s Empordà region as inseparable from his work. The jagged rock formations of the Cap de Creus outcrop and the Mediterranean light both found their way into Dalí’s paintings. Almost a century later, it’s still easy to see why both he and Picasso – who spent the summer of 1910 in Cadaqués – were drawn here.

Off the beaten path, Cadaqués has retained its charm and appeal with visitors from Duchamp and Lorca to today’s discerning traveller. Its stillness and authentic Catalan way of life have been retained, and although Cadaqués was made famous as an artistic enclave, these days it offers the modern traveller something very simple: it’s peaceful. It’s a great example of the ‘xino-xano,’ the Catalan equivalent of the Italian ‘piano piano,’ which means to take life slowly; little by little. With this rare sense of tranquillity, it invites you to stroll, to have a languid lunch in a waterfront restaurant, sip an espresso on a terrace or to paddle on the beach with an ice-cream. The sleepy fishing boats on the waves are all the movement you need. Visiting Cadaqués is a luxury in itself.

S’Agaró beach, estivillml / iStock Editorial / Getty Images Plus

S’Agaró, Costa Brava

Further south, along the Costa Brava, between the seaside towns of Sant Feliu de Guíxols and Platja d’Aro, lies the refined resort town of S’Agaró. Unlike many stretches of the Spanish coastline that have been reshaped by tourism over the years, this corner of Catalonia has preserved an atmosphere of the Riviera’s golden age. With a sweep of beach between rocky promontories forming the Sant Pol bay, visiting the town feels like stepping into a bygone, glamorous past. From its pastel beach huts, landscaped gardens and some impressive modernist villas, S’Agaró is sheer elegance. Some villas are fine examples of Belle Époque architecture and even in the busy summer season, the beaches do not feel chaotic.

Camí de Ronda coastal path, LUNAMARINA / iStock / Getty Images Plus

With the Camí de Ronda historic coastal path weaving along the cliffs and coves, past beaches and even through rocky arches (look up as you walk beneath), the rugged cliffs and umbrella pines (not palm trees) provide one of the loveliest coastal walks in Spain. The water in the bay is turquoise, the rocks are dramatic, and facing east, the sun rises over the sea. No wonder then, that this cinematic backdrop was used in the adaptation of John le Carré’s The Night Manager, filmed in the famous Hostal de La Gavina and gardens located here.

Beyond the beaches, S’Agaró is also part of Catalonia’s gastronomic scene. The food choices range from local chiringuitos (open-air beach bars or restaurants), advertising their catch of the day on chalkboards, to celebrated local bistros and nearby Girona’s Michelin-Starred restaurants. This is also part of the famous Empordà wine region, so you can expect some expert pairings at your table. With farm-to-table local produce, fresh seafood and plenty of local vineyards, you can experience peak Costa Brava gastronomy.

Hostal de La Gavina

Where to stay on Costa Brava

Hostal de La Gavina, one of Spain’s most iconic seaside luxury hotels, is perched above S’Agaró’s bay with sweeping views of the Mediterranean. Since opening in 1932, the property has remained in the hands of the Ensesa family, welcoming everyone from royalty to Hollywood stars. The black and white photos of the glamorous crowds on display chronicle the history. Standing beneath the Murano glass chandeliers on the Carrara marble you are transported to a time of classic European grandeur. Hostal de La Gavina is just the place to pass the day slowly, whether in the spa, landscaped gardens or enjoying the gastronomy led by a Michelin-Star-experienced chef. This is a place to come for the endless sea views and stay for the quiet luxury.

Peniscola beach, MEDITERRANEAN / E+ via Getty Images

Costa del Azahar

Named after the white blossom (the azahar) of the abundant orange trees found here, the orchards of the Costa del Azahar are just one of the sensory treats of the region. Framed by the mountainous and seaside landscape, the coast here shifts from the coves of the Sierra de Irta National Park with untouched beaches best reached by boat, to the olive groves and stone ramparts inland. The Costa del Azahar region can be blissfully peaceful. It’s also ideal for outdoor activities, with plenty of hikers and cyclists taking advantage of panoramic paths and routes. Even the coastal train line has incredible views, setting the meditative pace for when you step onto the platform. Active types can enjoy scuba diving at the Columbretes Islands or sailing along the coast, whilst history buffs head inland where quiet towns charm with cobbled streets and raise up on medieval hilltops. Peñíscola is the most famous site for its clifftop Templar castle and surrounding fortresses.

Las Parras de Castellote, a rural town in Maestrazgo, Rosendo Serrano Valera / iStock / Getty Images Plus

Inland, the Maestrazgo countryside is rolling, with mountains that give way to olive and citrus groves (or golf courses if you look for them), and the famous orange blossom that’s so dazzling, from March to May. This is also a wine region, specifically red, and with the proximity to Aragón and Catalonia, you can find influences in the local ‘mar i muntanya’ (sea and mountain) cuisine and viticulture. The paella here is superb; distinct to the Catalan paellas, and the fresh seafood dishes are renowned throughout Spain. 

Via Verde del Mar coastal route, Veronika Toth / iStock / Getty Images Plus

Benicàssim, Costa del Azahar

Further south lies the town of Benicàssim. While famous for its annual pop music festival, the rest of the year it’s more of a serene sanctuary. Despite the sandy beaches, Benicàssim has resisted overdevelopment and retained its peaceful charm – maybe incidentally because of its steep mountains. Beneath the pine forests of the Desert de les Palmes Natural Park there are plenty of scenic routes to explore, well-loved by cyclists and hikers that share both coast and mountain views. The nearby Via Verde del Mar coastal route, a former railway line, is now one of Spain’s most popular. But Benicàssim is a town that likes to relax. It’s a place for long lunches with sea views but also one that encourages enjoying the natural surroundings. The pine forests are calming, the sea is serene and there is a focus on wellness and balance to the flow of life. Here, luxury is measured in the quiet reclaiming of time and space – time spent ‘poc a poc’, step by step. 

Palasiet Wellness Clinic & Thalasso

Where to stay on Costa del Azahar

Among the gardens overlooking Benicàssim Bay sits the exceptional Palasiet Wellness Clinic & Thalasso. As Spain’s pioneering thalassotherapy retreat since founder Dr Joaquín Farnós developed it in the 1960s, this sanctuary draws on the therapeutic properties of the Mediterranean with seawater-based wellness treatments. For travellers seeking genuine restoration, Palasiet’s hotel and spa remains one of the Mediterranean’s most enduring wellness escapes, mirroring the peace and tranquillity of its coastal home.

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