If I went on Mastermind, retinol would be my specialist subject. In my capacity as one of Vogue’s skincare specialists, I have written countless articles and consulted innumerable experts on the subject with the sole purpose of determining the merits of the surprisingly divisive ingredient.
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Retinol has become somewhat genericised as a term for the broader category of retinoids. Featured in over-the-counter topical products, the vitamin A derivative is found ubiquitously in anti-ageing skincare products, selected for its ability to increase cell turnover and stimulate collagen. It’s popularly used for acne, requires two conversions to take it from retinol to retinal to the biologically active form, retinoic acid (which the skin can use) and can be degraded by light and may increase skin sensitivity to sunlight, meaning it should be used in the evening and always be followed by SPF the following day. It is widely regarded as the gold standard in skincare and is one of the most studied ingredients, with decades of scientific research behind it. Retinol is also the subject I am asked most about among my friends and family for advice on whether or not to use it, as unlike other ingredients like hyaluronic acid, it is not for everyone – but more on that below.
Hyaluronic acid is far easier to get to grips with and can be easily slipped into a routine with no real conditions to consider. HA is naturally found in the body and is a powerful humectant, which means its job is to attract and hold water – and it’s so good at that task that it can bind a thousand times its weight in water, making it ideal for those with dehydrated and lacklustre skin. It can be injected or taken as a supplement but is most commonly found in moisturisers and serums to lock in hydration, plump and smooth fine lines.
So it is fair to say that both ingredients can rejuvenate and support skin resilience, but which is better suited for you? Well, with the help of facial aesthetic expert Dr Maryam Zamani and dermatologist Dr Ariel Haus, here are the answers to your burning retinol and hyaluronic acid-related queries.
- What are hyaluronic acid and retinol, how do they work and how do they differ?
- Which skin concerns do they address?
- Which is better for different concerns and skin types?
- Who should use hyaluronic acid or retinol in their routine?
- Can hyaluronic acid and retinol be used in the same skincare routine?
- What is the best order to apply these ingredients?
- What should beginners know about retinol?
- What should we look for when choosing a hyaluronic acid product?
- Meet the experts
These ingredients, while both widely used in skincare, are very different. Hyaluronic acid targets hydration and barrier support, while retinol is about remodelling. Putting it simply, Dr Haus says, “Hyaluronic acid gives the skin water; retinol gives the skin instructions.” On retinol, he explains further, “Once absorbed, the skin converts it into retinoic acid, which binds to receptors in the cell nucleus and alters gene expression. That means it speeds up cell turnover, normalises the way skin cells shed, stimulates fibroblasts to produce new collagen and interrupts the enzymes that break existing collagen down. It is genuinely corrective, but it works over months rather than minutes.”
On the other hand, Dr Zamani reveals, “Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring molecule in the skin that has an exceptional ability to attract and hold water. Topically, it primarily acts as a humectant, helping to improve hydration, suppleness and the appearance of fine dehydration lines. It is not an ‘acid’ as we know it.”
Medik8
Crystal Retinal 1 Serum
- Key ingredients: 0.01 per cent stabilised retinal, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, vitamin E
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: Medik8 is a brand well known for its stellar retinoid formulas. Beginners should start with Crystal Retinal 1, which contains 0.01 per cent stabilised retinal, a retinoid (meaning it’s in the same family as retinol) which has been shown to work 11 times faster on the skin. This formula really works and the number rating system (there is a Crystal Retinal 2, 3 and 4, for example) makes the sometimes confusing task of increasing your retinal strength very easy.
- “Though marketed as a serum, Medik8’s viral retinal feels much more like a lightweight cream. It’s deceptively cosseting – just one use stimulates results, and I was pleasantly surprised to see some dry patches had smoothed out overnight. It also works quickly without being aggressive on the skin barrier. Within a month of using it, I noticed my complexion was calmer and clearer with fewer breakouts. If, like me, you have sensitive skin, you will love this one – as will anyone just starting on their retinol journey.” — Tracy Achonwa, beauty writer
- Gentle but effective
- Different strengths to build up safely
- Firming, plumping and brightening
- May irritate blemish-prone complexions
Skinceuticals
H.A. Intensifier Multi-Glycan
- Best hyaluronic acid for deep hydration
- Why it’s Vogue approved: This hard-working serum doesn’t just treat dehydration from the outside, but it also works to amplify the skin’s own HA production over time. It contains 1.3 per cent hyaluronic acid and 12 per cent proxylane to improve skin quality and texture, as well as a postbiotic ferment extract to help increase and preserve hyaluronic acid levels in the skin’s upper layers.
- intensely hydrating and plumping
- smoothing impact
- quickly absorbing
- price
What retinol and hyaluronic acid have in common is their ability to improve the appearance of fine lines, but they do so in different ways and to different levels of permanence. “Hyaluronic acid addresses dehydration, tightness, dullness and the loss of surface plumpness, anything caused by a lack of water in the skin,” says Dr Haus. “It is also very useful as a supportive ingredient alongside more active treatments and post-procedure.” Additionally, it can leave the skin looking brighter, smoother and temporarily plumps fine lines. Retinol, on the other hand, is more biologically active and “addresses photoageing and fine lines, uneven texture, enlarged-looking pores, congestion and acne, and pigmentation,” Dr Haus adds.
Between the two powerhouse ingredients, different concerns and skin types should call on their supercharged properties. The experts break it down:
- For fine lines and skin texture: If you are looking to smooth the appearance of fine lines and even out texture, retinol is the ingredient that both experts agree would be better, as, according to Dr Zamani, it has “a much stronger evidence base for influencing collagen, epidermal renewal and longer-term skin remodelling.” While hyaluronic acid will temporarily soften fine lines, Dr Haus reveals that it does so by “plumping the surface, but it isn’t building anything underneath. If someone wants a structural change, it’s retinol.”
- For acne: Retinoids are an oft-prescribed acne treatment, such as adapalene or tretinoin, which “have considerably stronger clinical evidence and are often more appropriate for active acne” than retinol itself, Dr Zamani tells us. Dr Haus explains how it works. He says, “Retinol is comedolytic, and it normalises the way the follicle sheds cells, so it prevents blockages forming rather than treating them after the fact.” On the other hand, hyaluronic acid has no effect on acne itself. It does serve a purpose, however, especially when layered with the ingredient: “It earns its place by keeping the skin comfortable while retinol does the work.”
- For dark spots and hyperpigmentation: In this case, a layered approach will be required, and that may include retinol. “Retinol can be useful because it influences epidermal turnover and pigmentation pathways,” explains Dr Zamani. “However, pigmentation is complex, and I would never treat it with retinol alone. Daily broad-spectrum SPF is fundamental, and depending on the type of pigmentation, ingredients such as vitamin C, tranexamic acid or azelaic acid may also have a role.” Dr Haus concurs, adding that “Hyaluronic acid has no action on pigment whatsoever.”
- For dry or dehydrated skin: Dr Haus believes it is first important to differentiate between what is meant by dry or dehydrated skin, as the terms mean two different things. Succinctly, “Dehydrated skin lacks water; dry skin lacks lipids.” And it is with dehydrated skin where hyaluronic acid comes into its own. When it comes to dry, however, hyaluronic acid should be layered, ideally with a ceramide- or lipid-rich moisturiser “to seal that water in,” says Dr Haus. He adds, “In a very dry environment or an air-conditioned office, an unsealed hyaluronic acid serum can actually make the skin feel tighter.”
- For oily skin: According to Dr Haus, “Retinol is the priority ingredient, but hyaluronic acid is a useful partner. Oily skin can still be dehydrated, and a lightweight hyaluronic serum hydrates without adding oil.”
- For sensitive skin: Sensitive skin types need to take a cautious approach to retinol usage. “For sensitive skin, I would generally start with hydration and barrier support before introducing retinol slowly and at a low concentration,” explains Dr Zamani. “Sensitive skin does not necessarily mean you cannot use retinol; it means you need to introduce it intelligently.”
Innisfree
Green Tea Seed Hyaluronic Serum
- Best hyaluronic acid for skin bounce
- Why it’s Vogue approved: South Korean skincare brand Innisfree knows how to make skin feel fresh-out-the-spa, even if you’re at home. This serum pairs multiweight hyaluronic acid with niacinamide and camellia, a tea leaf extract known to stimulate collagen production. Expect to enjoy skin that feels and looks smooth, soothed and bouncy. It has a refreshing scent that comes courtesy of limonene essential oil, which is worth noting if you’re fragrance averse.
- glowy finish
- lightweight
- no fragrance
- a little goes a long way
- silky texture
- may tingle on application
Skin Rocks
Retinoid 1 Vitamin A Face Serum
- Product type: Serum
- Ingredients: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, bakuchiol, soybean extract, squalane, vitamin E
- Usage: In the evening, after cleansing
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: If you’re not already using a retinoid in your skincare regimen, it’s not too late to start. A great place to start is with Skin Rocks, whose retinoid offering is straightforward and easy to understand. As for its benefits for mature skin, there are plenty, from improving radiance and reducing dark spots to firming lax skin and improving cell turnover.
- Start here and build up through the dosages
- Helpful quantity marker on the lid so you use the right amount of product
- May even work for sensitive skin types, although practice caution and build up slowly
- On the more expensive end of the price spectrum
Well-tolerated by most, hyaluronic acid is a universal ingredient. “Almost anyone can benefit from good hydration, so hyaluronic acid can be useful across a very broad range of ages and skin types, particularly if your skin feels tight or dehydrated,” says Dr Zamani. Dr Haus agrees, adding “There’s very little argument against it.”
As for retinol, it’s slightly more complicated. “Retinol is more targeted,” details Dr Zamani. “I would consider it for someone wanting to address early photoageing, fine lines, uneven texture, pigmentation or acne. The important thing is not to use the strongest product possible. The best retinol is one that your skin can tolerate consistently.”
On the oft-asked question of when you should start using it, Dr Haus advises that you can start introducing it “from the mid-to-late twenties as a preventative measure, and at any adult age where acne, texture, pigmentation or ageing are a concern.” But he wants to make it clear that there are exceptions: “It should be avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding, and anyone with a compromised barrier or an active inflammatory flare should stabilise the skin first. If you’re having a resurfacing procedure or laser treatment, your practitioner will usually ask you to pause it beforehand.”
Not only can hyaluronic acid and retinol be used in the same skincare routine, but they may be useful when paired. Hyaluronic acid can help combat potential irritation and dryness caused by retinol. “They can work very well together,” Dr Zamani says, while Dr Haus wants to make clear that “They aren’t in competition; they solve different problems.” Dr Zamani expands, “Retinol can initially cause dryness, scaling, redness or sensitivity, particularly when it is first introduced. Supporting the skin barrier and maintaining hydration can make the experience much more comfortable.” It may even mean that you get better results. Dr Haus reveals why. “Most people who abandon retinol do so because of the dryness, tightness and flaking in the first few weeks, and hydration directly reduces that. It doesn’t blunt the retinol’s effectiveness; it makes it possible to stay consistent with it, which is the thing that actually determines results.” It is best used as part of a nourishing multi-step skincare routine that includes a ceramide-rich moisturiser, but more on that below.
Augustinus Bader
The Retinol Serum
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: Alongside a pure retinol concentration, this lightweight, non-irritating serum contains the brand’s signature TFC8 complex, which is formulated specially to inject skin with vitality and health. As a result of this powerful combination, fine lines and wrinkles are softened; scars, blemishes and pigmentation are reduced; and skin feels better hydrated and supple.
- Vogue verdict: “Although it’s an investment, my skin looked visibly brighter, clearer and plumper after using this serum consecutively. The hyperpigmentation, which I always struggle to address, was noticeably less dark too. I’m impressed,” says Georgia Day, Vogue beauty contributor.
- Ingredients: retinol, TFC8 complex
- Combines retinol with advanced TFC8
- Well-tolerated
- Great for skin texture and radiance
- No overwhelming fragrance
- An investment serum
- Pay attention to the quantity used as a little goes a long way
Vichy
Vichy Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum
- Best hyaluronic acid for dry skin
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: Like other French dermo-cosmetic brands, Vichy’s product range is science-backed, so you can expect effective results. Vichy’s Minéral 89 is British Skin Foundation-approved and is made up of just 11 ingredients, including natural origin hyaluronic acid and volcanic water. “This Vichy serum is lightweight, sinks in quickly and works really well under make-up, plus I always feel like my skin gets a good drink whenever I use it,” says Vogue contributor Hannah Coates. “It’s a must-try”. Alongside a massive 89 per cent dose of the brand’s celebrated mineral water, which is abundant in 15 essential minerals, this formula contains a generous dose of hyaluronic acid, which helps boost hydration for up to 24 hours and leave skin feeling soft, supple and soothed.
- good for all skin types
- layers well
- some report it feels a bit tacky
The general rule, when it comes to skincare layering, is to apply the thinnest formula and then the thickest or the lightest texture to the richest. Retinol should always be applied in the PM as part of an evening routine, which, according to Dr Zamani, should begin with cleansing, then the hydrating serum, retinol, then moisturiser. Dr Haus stresses that the hyaluronic acid serum should be applied to “slightly damp skin and allow it to settle for a minute or two.” This is crucial, he tells us. “The one detail people miss is that timing gap. Applying retinol to genuinely wet skin increases penetration and, with it, irritation. Let the hyaluronic acid absorb until the skin feels touch-dry.” If your skin is struggling with retinol, try a sandwich approach, which consists of “a layer of moisturiser first, then retinol, then moisturiser again. It slows absorption and improves comfort without meaningfully compromising results,” Dr Haus tells us.
Dr Zamani emphasises that when retinol is in the equation, a simple skincare routine is crucial. “There is no prize for using five active ingredients in one evening. Introducing one new active at a time allows you to understand how your skin responds.”
In the morning, cleanse, use hyaluronic acid, moisturiser and SPF.
Mimetique
Skin Revive Serum
- Best hyaluronic acid for skin barrier health
- Why it’s Vogue approved: Packed with actives including hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and the brand’s signature SMR-C5 complex, this lightweight serum from newly launched Mimetique delivers intense hydration while also balancing sebum production. Alongside that, it also promises to brighten, firm, and boost overall cellular regeneration. If your skin is feeling particularly vulnerable it’s also a great option as many of its ingredients also work to support and strengthen the skin barrier too.
- effective at boosting glow
- smoothing
- concentrated formula
- only 30ml
Laneige
Water Bank Blue Hyaluronic Serum
- Why we love it: While Laneige’s legendary sleeping masks tend to get all of the acclaim, we’re fans of this sleeper-hit serum, which delivers a serious dose of hydration with humectants beta-glucan and hyaluronic acid, plus nourishment from emollient squalane. Though it has a fairly rich texture, it’s not remotely greasy or heavy, so it’s suitable for all skin types. We’d also be remiss if we didn’t mention the futuristic packaging — the top twists to reveal the pump, keeping the dispenser hygienic and streamlined.
- Key ingredients: Squalane, hyaluronic acid, beta-glucan
There are five factors to consider when starting on a retinol journey: strength, frequency, side effects, mistakes and SPF.
- Strength: Go low and slow. “A 0.1 to 0.3 per cent retinol is more than enough to begin with, and there’s no advantage in jumping to the highest concentration you can find,” says Dr Haus. “Consistency at a low strength will always outperform an aggressive product used sporadically because the skin can’t tolerate it.” However, Dr Zamani wants to make clear that the concentration isn’t all you need to consider. “The formulation, stability, delivery system and type of retinoid all influence both efficacy and tolerability.” Look also at the ingredients that retinol is paired with.
- Frequency: As part of the aforementioned slow approach, twice a week is a good starting point for retinol usage, building up as the skin’s tolerance increases. “Twice a week to begin with, building to alternate nights and then nightly over roughly eight to twelve weeks, guided by how the skin responds rather than by the calendar,” confirms Dr Haus.
- Side effects: Dryness, flaking, redness and purging are common when retinol is introduced into a routine and happen “typically over the first two to six weeks,” says Dr Haus. But he wants to differentiate between this “normal adjustment” and “persistent burning, swelling, or significant irritation, " which is not normal, and that’s the point to stop and take advice.”
- Mistakes: “The most common mistakes I see are using too much product, starting every night, combining retinol immediately with several other potentially irritating actives, and assuming that significant redness or peeling means the product is working better,” says Dr Zamani. Instead, use just a pea-sized amount of product, avoid strong acids and be consistent. Dr Haus says one of the things he notices in patience is that they give up at week three “just before it starts working”. This is typically under the assumption of instant results. “Texture and tone shift at around 12 weeks, but collagen change takes around six months and beyond.”
- SPF: The experts stress SPF is a non-negotiable. “If you are investing in a retinol routine to improve photoageing and pigmentation, you also need to protect the skin from the UV exposure that drives those concerns,” explains Dr Zamani. “I recommend a broad-spectrum SPF every morning, regardless of whether you use retinol at night.” This is also important because retinol makes the skin more sensitive to sunlight, and thus more prone to burning.
L'Oréal Paris
Pure Retinol Revitalift Night Serum
- Key ingredients: retinol, macro hyaluronic acid
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: While on the pricier side of affordable, this powerhouse serum offers a lot of bang for your buck, so we had to include it. Formulated with a high concentration of pure retinol, it is one of the brand’s most potent blends, and targets fine lines and wrinkles, while added hyaluronic acid replenishes the skin with moisture. It’s particularly good for those who want to target the signs of ageing in the skin.
- Impressive results on uneven texture
- Only need a very small amount
- Well-tolerated
- May irritate sensitive skin
Naturium
Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5%
- Best multi-weight hyaluronic acid
- Why it’s Vogue approved: Four differently weighted hyaluronic acid molecules means that gel-textured serum can replenish skin’s hydration right where it’s needed throughout the skin’s structure. The result is skin that feels plumper and thicker. It also makes a great canvas for make-up supplication as it leaves skin with a supple, not sticky finish.
- gel-like texture
- non-sticky
- doesn’t pill
- affordable price
- may not work for sensitive skin types
Not all hyaluronic acid products are considered equal. Formulation matters. “I like formulations that combine humectants with ingredients that support the skin barrier,” says Dr Zamani. These include the likes of glycerin, panthenol, ceramides and appropriate lipids. “Hyaluronic acid attracts water, but maintaining healthy skin also requires a functioning barrier to help retain that water.” You should also look for different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid. “High molecular weight sits on the surface and creates a hydrating film; lower weights penetrate slightly further,” details Dr Haus. “A formula combining both works across more of the skin than one that doesn’t.”
He adds too that there are practical considerations to enhance its effectiveness. “Apply it to damp skin and seal it with a moisturiser. Hyaluronic acid draws water; your job is to give it water to draw and then stop it evaporating.”
- Dr Maryam Zamani is an oculoplastic surgeon, founder of the Clinic and a facial aesthetic expert
- Dr Ariel Haus is a dermatologist and the founder of Dr Haus Dermatology on Harley Street.