Over the last couple of decades, Ugg's ubiquitous fluffy boot-slipper hybrids have had the kind of trajectory that lesser footwear brands dream of. After the style gained popularity in their native Australia, Uggs established a dedicated following among Southern California surfers in need of shoes that would keep them warm after a day of pounding the waves. Then, in the 2000s, Uggs hit the big time as the “It” shoe for a generation of Valley Girls (and those looking to emulate their style) who paired them with short skirts and velour track jackets. Twenty-odd years later, the brand banned from Christopher Nolan sets has matured and diversified thanks to a string of wild collabs with heavyweight names, including Tremaine Emory and Telfar. Its new team-up with Willy Chavarria, however, might be its biggest swing yet.
“I love that surfer vibe. Are you kidding? I'm crazy for that surfer vibe. I love it. I love it,” Chavarria says. “But I wanted to just have a totally opposite perspective.” The opposite of Uggs in Chavarria's mind? Bikers. Instead of longboards and frappuccinos, Chavarria's designs flip the script, reimagining the Ugg's unmistakable chestnut-suede silhouette in brawny and brooding black leather. The tallest and most formidable among them, the Guard Boot, features moto details like a moulded toe cap, protective shin guard, and pull-on handles, while the mid-calf boots – the Biker and the Relaxed – as well as the ankle-framing Otzo clog are draped in slouchy leather and fitted with chrome hardware. Finally, the five-piece family is completed with a blacked-out pair of hotel slippers featuring Chavarria's crest in fiery red embroidery. Of course, each pair does still feature Ugg's signature plush sheepskin lining.
The collection is rooted in Chavarria's gritty, Latino-inflected vision of America, as well as his upbringing in the San Joaquin Valley, where the Mongols Motorcycle Club were a fixture of the scene. “They were rowdy and fun, and all the girls were really hot. And the guys were beastly. And I just thought it was like such a cool vibe,” Chavarria says.
To accompany the collection, Chavarria and Ugg produced a cheeky campaign titled Ugg and Kisses, a playful spoof on the ’90s working-class sitcom Married… With Children that replaces the original cast with beloved Latin artists, including Eva Longoria, Becky G, Danny Trejo, and Ivan Cornejo. “I think that idea of the sitcom family is transcultural,” Chavarria says. “In the United States, it hits on a very familiar chord that all families can relate to.”
The result is a collaboration and a campaign that, like all of Chavarria's work, is defined by dualities. It doesn't try to solve anything, but instead presents its incongruous connotations – outlaw bikers, SoCal surfers, VSCO girls – with humour and joy. Naturally, they're also hella cosy.
The full Ugg x Willy Chavarria collection drops on September 10, with prices ranging from £190 for a pair of leather hotel slippers to £800 for the full-length Guard Boot.