Grail watches break, that’s the reality. We asked the team behind the Service Department at WatchGuys, who work on the company's own inventory of 50 to 150 watch repairs a month, to walk us through the basics: how to spot the warning signs, what a repair actually costs, why gold watches can be more difficult (and therefore expensive too) and how to avoid the water damage that ruins more watches than anything else.
Here's everything you need to know about getting your watch repaired, straight from the people who fix them.
What are the most common reasons people bring a watch in for repair?
The most common repairs that we often have to make can stem from mistreatment of the watch or day-to-day incidents. For example, people commonly drop their watches. Depending on the impact damage, it may require balance staff replacement or repair. This is not a huge issue, and a pretty easy fix for most watches. For most newer, modern watches, we typically do not have to service them. With a 2026 card, your watch is good for about 5 to 7 years. Pre-2020 models often require small tweaks in terms of servicing to keep it up to timing standard. The watches we typically have to do the most service on are vintage models, which often require complete overhaul service. This can be caused by years of neglect that finally catch up. While you would assume that leaving a watch alone for years is fine, they still need service every few years.
How can you tell if your watch needs professional servicing?
You can tell pretty easily just by looking at your watch. Rolex guarantees a stricter accuracy of -2/+2 seconds, but a mechanical watch running -4/+6 seconds a day still meets the official Swiss COSC standard. If you're consistently a few seconds slow or fast, that's not a major issue — at most a simple adjustment, and maybe not worth bringing in. Once it starts losing minutes and hours, that's when an overhaul is necessary.
You'll usually start to notice around the four-year mark. Naturally, your watch loses accuracy over time, and that timeline speeds up if it's regularly exposed to certain elements — working near a magnetic field, for example. Another indicator is if the crown feels tighter or harder to wind than usual; get your watchmaker to look at the movement.
The biggest red flag is fogging or condensation under the crystal — that means water has gotten into the movement, and it needs immediate service. Wait, and it'll cost you thousands as the issue worsens. Same goes for a cracked crystal: get it replaced immediately, since it's no longer guaranteed waterproof, and glass shards can get into the movement and force an overhaul. Not much can be safely fixed at home — we'd generally recommend taking it to a professional.
What are the different tiers of the watch repair industry?
Two types, really. The first are the types of watchmakers you would find at your local mall. They are often more experienced in working on cheaper quartz watches, and focus on resizing bracelets and pin replacement. Plenty of them are perfectly honest, but they are likely not equipped to handle your luxury Swiss watch.The second is the skilled watchmakers. They can either be brand authorised (the one Rolex sends your watch to) or work independently. Some of these independent watchmakers used to work at a brand service centre for Rolex and are extremely experienced, there are the watchmakers we use at WatchGuys and can be trusted with your luxury watch.
What should you look for when choosing a reputable watch repairer?
The best watch repairers have been in the business for years. If you’re not looking to send your watch to Rolex, find someone with a long history and good reviews, you should also be sure that they use only 100% authentic parts for repairs. We recommend that you ask your watchmaker for an estimate or repair costs before they start, and be clear on what exactly is being fixed. It is also important to make sure that the watchmaker keeps your luxury watch insured while it is in their possession, that way you are covered in case something happens to the watch. Once work is completed, ask for the timegrapher readings (which will show rate, amplitude and beat error) to ensure that the watch is running perfectly. You can also ask for the pressure test results to make sure that the watch maintains waterproofness.
What's the most common frustration people have when sending a luxury watch off for repair?
Often, the waiting game is the most frustrating experience. Depending on what is being done to your watch, it can take a few weeks to repair. A straightforward service at a good independent watchmaker usually takes between two to six weeks. A brand service centre (like Rolex themselves) is more commonly eight to 16 weeks – and even longer if the watch has to go to Switzerland or a part is on backorder. While the amount of time this takes can be frustrating, note that good work often takes time. Anyone promising you a full mechanical service in three days is either lying or doing something wrong. Here, patience is key. The second most frustrating experience can be price estimate creep. The first quoted repair price may have been a few hundreds dollars, and over time turned into thousands. This isn’t always a malicious move by the repairer, as overtime they might find bigger issues with your watch’s movement. However, it is important that your watchmaker is transparent and informs you of these issues as they arise.
Roughly how much does a service or repair cost, and what affects the price?
A time-and-date automatic: approximately £370–£740. A Rolex overhaul: £450–£600, more if parts are needed – sometimes over £1,500. Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe: £1,100–£3,000. Perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, a Richard Mille: a different conversation entirely, often five figures. It all comes down to the complexity of the movement, whether parts need replacing, and the depth rating.
What's the most challenging type of repair to work on, and why?
Water damage is often the hardest, and most expensive, to fix. Rust from water damage can often require many parts to be individually assessed under magnification, and often replaced. The price and timeline for this sort of fix can stack up. It is important to service these watches immediately, but not everyone is so proactive. A Rolex that gets opened and dried within days is usually fine and can be easily fixed. However, some people make the dire mistake of assuming that their watch is fine after the fog clears up.
Why do gold watches tend to cost more to repair?
There are several reasons that a gold watch is harder to repair, and it mostly comes down to the nature of the material. Gold is soft, so it dents and deforms far more easily than steel, therefore damage tends to be deeper. Laser-welding a gold case means matching the alloy and the colour, which is often time-consuming to do correctly. Parts can be another big issue. A solid gold link, clasp or bezel is priced substantially by weight of metal, so a single replacement link on a gold bracelet can cost more than an entire service on a steel watch. Gold bracelets also stretch far more readily than steel, so they need attention more often.
How often should seals and gaskets be replaced?
The seal and gasket of a watch should ideally be replaced every time the watch goes in for a service, so every four to six years—and sometimes more often for vintage models. If you own a dive watch (like a Submariner or Sea-Dweller) and swim or dive regularly, we would recommend annually pressure testing and replacing seals to maintain depth rating. Skip it, and a £500 service can become a £2,000 restoration once rust sets in. Gaskets cost under a few hundred dollars, and are the best investment in terms of upkeep for your watch.
What's the most common way watches get water damaged?
Watches are often exposed to water damage if the crown is not properly screwed down before being exposed to water. Be sure that your crown is screwed down tightly before exposing it to water. Also, do not assume that your vintage Rolex can handle exposure to water. Be sure to have your vintage watch assessed before you ever even think about taking a dip in the pool with it. You could completely ruin your watch, and not all vintage parts are so readily available for replacement. This is especially true for rare pieces.
Any DIY watch care tips that are actually safe to do at home?
Always check that the crown of your watch is fully screwed down. Never operate the crown or pushers when the watch is wet or under water. After getting out of the ocean or a chlorinated pool, be sure to rinse your watch with fresh water. Otherwise, dried salt can get crevices of your watch and cause erosion over time.
You can generally clean your modern stainless steel Rolex at home with lukewarm water, a drop of mild soap and a soft toothbrush. Once clean, rinse and dry it completely.
What's the most challenging job you've handled?
We have seen watches that survived house fires. The customers often wanted to have them serviced and keep a hold of them for sentimental value.