A phalanx of terrace cafĂ©s, galleries and restaurants attracts a savvy Hungarian clientele over the river from Pest to Ăjbuda. Once considered the domain of elderly Magyar ladies and their poodles, this elegant district has seen a change in demographic in recent years.
Named after Hungaryâs most famous composer, tree-lined avenue BartĂłk BĂ©la Ășt is its main artery, behind the GellĂ©rt Hotel now closed for renovation. A statue of 20th-century writer GĂ©za GĂĄrdonyi stands outside the literary cafĂ© that both typified this stately neighbourhood when active in the pre-war era, and pioneered its revival after reopening in 2010: Hadik.
Adjoining it, the Szatyor (âBagâ) has an arty, ruin-bar feel typical of early 21st-century Budapest, but its name derives from a quote from 1930s Hadik regular, writer Frigyes Karinthy, originator of the concept of six degrees of separation.
Best things to do in Ăjbuda
The Godot Gallery showcases some of Budapest's most challenging contemporary artists, most notably the ever-provocative Dr MĂĄriĂĄs, whose work often forms part of festivals here, including the Art Expo series running in October 2025.
Go off the beaten track
Surrounded by plentiful greenery, two terrace restaurants, a concert stage, small pier, tennis club, outdoor gym, childrenâs playground and a jogging course, Feneketlen-tĂł (the âbottomless lakeâ) provides ample scope for recreation alongside BartĂłk BĂ©la Ăt. Abundant reeds attract fish and birdlife â happily, fishing has been banned, with this urban park now (almost) fully given over to nature.
Get cultured
The cultural agenda at the turquoise-spotted B32 GalĂ©ria Ă©s KultĂșrtĂ©r is fascinatingly random â you could stumble across an exhibition, a vinyl-only DJ night, a design fair or a puppet show. Unless itâs theatre, the impenetrable Hungarian language need not prevent the non-Magyar speaker from getting the most from their visit.
Peterjon CresswellKelet Café
Where to eat in Ăjbuda
Restaurant, bar and arboretum in one, BĂLA serves a healthy plate of pearl-barley risotto with mushrooms, spinach and pesto, while the adjacent, cafĂ©-like Kelet specialises in grilled sandwiches, the unusual smoked-catfish-with-cheese variety coming in full and half portions.
Over the road, the storied Hadik goes the whole hog where mains are concerned, the rosé duck breast accompanied by roast potatoes with bacon, the grilled chicken breast by truffle oil risotto.
Moving away from meat, Vegan Love was opened by street food specialists Magic Burger to create layer upon layer of veg-based goodies squeezed into a healthy bun â the broccoli millet burger is a deservedly popular choice.
For fish, head to the recently opened Hawaiian ONO Poké Bowl Bar and try the namesake signature dish with tuna or salmon.
Photograph: Jennifer Walker for Time Out
The best bars in Ăjbuda
Drinking destinations along BartĂłk BĂ©la Ăt tend to specialise â which is why ale aficionados make a beeline for the 32-tap KEG SörmƱvhĂĄz, whose current selection features an Uluru wheat variety from HopTop and a Mango Bay pale ale from Mad Scientist, both breweries local to Budapest.
Wine buffs, on the other hand, beat a path to the Palack Borbår diagonally opposite the Hotel Gellért. Its light whites from the Hungarian-Argentine Haraszthy winery in nearby Etyek include a citrusy Sauvignon Blanc also sold by the glass.
A shot of rare Polish vodka such as Dwór Sieraków and a plate of marinated herring are the way to go at evening-only bookshop-café Gdansk, while the Szatyor serves a mean mimosa among its many mixed drinks, alcoholic and otherwise.
How to get here
From Deåk Ferenc tér in the city centre, tram 47 or 49 takes just over five minutes to reach Gårdonyi tér. Either side of it and also close by, Gellért tér and Móricz Zsigmond körtér are served by green metro line 4.
Nearby
Over Liberty Bridge from Gellért tér stand the produce-filled Great Market Hall and the Bålna Budapest leisure complex near downtown Pest.
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Words by Peterjon Cresswell, based in Budapest. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines.